International Journal on Advanced Science, Engineering and Information Technology, Vol. 8 (2018) No. 4, DOI:10.18517/ijaseit.8.4.4861

Study of Cotton Fabric Dyeing Process With Some Mordant Methods By Using Gambier (Uncaria gambir Roxb) Extract

F Failisnur, S. Sofyan, Anwar Kasim, Anggraini Tuty


Natural dye that was re-extracted from raw gambier used to dye cotton fabrics. Aluminum sulfate, calcium oxide, and ferrous sulfate were used as mordants. Dyeing used four different mordant methods namely pre, simultaneous, post, and combined (pre and post) mordant. The chemical components in dry gambier extract were tested by using X Ray-Diffraction. The dyed cotton fabrics were evaluated their color strength (K/S), color difference values (L*, a*, and b*), fastness to washing, rubbing and light. The results showed that the main components of gambier were anhydrous catechins, catechins, and pyrocatechol. The use of post mordant and combined mordant methods with calcium oxide mordant produced higher color strength (K/S) than others. The fastness to washing and rubbing values were in a range from good to excellent, while the average of the fastness to light in a range from moderate to good. The amount of mordant metal that was bound to the fabric between 15-40%.


Natural dye; gambier; cotton fabric; the method of mordant; color properties

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