Enhancing Eco-Friendly Textile Dyeing: Comparative Analysis of Ethanol Maceration and Boiling Extraction with Lime Mordanting on Cellulose-Based Fabrics

Febrianti Nurul Hidayah (1), Izzatu Rahmatillah (2), Arina Roudlotul Mahfudzoh (3)
(1) Textile Engineering Department, Faculty of Industrial Technology, Universitas Islam Indonesia, Sleman City, Yogyakarta, Indonesia
(2) Textile Engineering Department, Faculty of Industrial Technology, Universitas Islam Indonesia, Sleman City, Yogyakarta, Indonesia
(3) Textile Engineering Department, Faculty of Industrial Technology, Universitas Islam Indonesia, Sleman City, Yogyakarta, Indonesia
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F. N. Hidayah, I. Rahmatillah, and A. Roudlotul Mahfudzoh, “Enhancing Eco-Friendly Textile Dyeing: Comparative Analysis of Ethanol Maceration and Boiling Extraction with Lime Mordanting on Cellulose-Based Fabrics ”, Int. J. Adv. Sci. Eng. Inf. Technol., vol. 15, no. 1, pp. 121–130, Feb. 2025.
This study investigates the colorimetric properties of cellulose-based textiles—Lyocell, Rayon, and Cotton—dyed with natural dyes extracted from Jenitri leaves (Elaeocarpus ganitrus) and Sappan bark (Caesalpinia sappan), utilizing two distinct extraction methods: ethanol maceration (EE) and traditional boiling extraction (BE). The role of lime (Citrus aurantifolia) as a natural mordant was explored in both pre- and post-mordanting processes to assess its impact on color fixation and durability. Comprehensive spectrophotometric analysis was conducted, measuring reflectance, L* (lightness), a* (red/green), b* (yellow/blue), color difference (ΔE*), and color strength (K/S). The findings reveal that ethanol maceration significantly enhances color yield and chromaticity, with K/S values at 400 nm ranging from 1.2 to 1.9, surpassing the boiling method’s range of 0.9 to 1.4. The ΔE* values, averaging 3.0 between EE and BE samples, underscore the pronounced color variations resulting from different extraction techniques. Furthermore, lime mordanting notably improved color fastness, with dry rubbing test scores consistently reaching 4 to 5, indicating superior resistance to color transfer. This research highlights the potential of lime as an eco-friendly mordant, particularly when combined with macerated natural dyes, promoting sustainable textile dyeing practices. The study emphasizes that the selection of extraction and mordanting techniques plays a crucial role in determining the final coloristic properties of naturally dyed textiles, thereby supporting the development of more innovative and environmentally conscious textile production methods.

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